⭐ Choosing an Inverter for Your Campervan
A simple guide to selecting the right inverter for your electrical system.
1. What an Inverter Actually Does
Your leisure batteries store DC power (12V or 24V).
Many household-style appliances run on AC power (230V).
An inverter converts 12V DC → 230V AC, allowing you to run mains-powered appliances like:
Laptop chargers
TV / monitors
Blenders & small kitchen appliances
Hair dryers (with limitations!)
Power tools
Coffee machines
But the type and size of inverter you choose matters more than most people expect.
2. Pure Sine Wave vs Modified Sine Wave
Not all inverters produce the same quality of AC power.
✔ Pure Sine Wave (recommended)
Produces clean, stable power
Safe for sensitive electronics
Works with everything
More efficient & longer-lasting appliances
Slightly more expensive
Best for: laptops, TVs, fridges, induction hobs, any modern electronics.
✔ Modified Sine Wave
Cheaper
Noisy power output
Not suitable for sensitive devices
Can damage chargers, tools or appliances
Causes buzzing in audio equipment
Best avoided.
We always recommend pure sine wave inverters for campervan electrical systems.
3. Choosing the Right Size (Wattage)
Your inverter must be big enough to run the largest load you expect at one time.
Step 1 — Identify your appliance wattage
Every appliance lists its power use (W). Examples:
Laptop charger: 60–120W
TV: 40–100W
Blender: 300–600W
Air fryer: 1200–2000W
Microwave: 800–1500W
Induction hob: 1500–3000W
Step 2 — Add together any loads you’ll run at the same time
Example:
Laptop (60W)
TV (80W)
Router (10W)
Total = 150W → a 300W inverter is plenty.
Example (kitchen use):
Blender (500W)
Coffee machine (1200W)
Total = 1700W → choose a 2000W inverter.
Step 3 — Add 20% headroom
This prevents overloading and extends inverter life.
4. Consider Surge / Peak Power
Some appliances draw a big burst of power when they turn on.
Examples:
Power tools
Motors
Compressors
Some microwaves
Induction hobs
If your appliance says:
1500W continuous, 3000W peak
Then you need an inverter capable of at least 3000W surge.
5. How Inverters Affect Your Battery Size
This is the part most people misunderstand.
Running a 2000W appliance from a 12V battery bank requires:
Amps = Power ÷ Voltage
Amps = 2000W ÷ 12V ≈ 166A
That is a huge current draw.
Recommended battery setups:
| Inverter Size | Battery Bank Required |
|---|---|
| 300–500W | 1 x 100Ah battery OK |
| 1000W | 200Ah battery minimum |
| 1500–2000W | 300–400Ah recommended |
| 3000W | 400–600Ah recommended |
⚠️ Lithium batteries are strongly recommended for anything above 1500W because they can safely provide high current.
6. Should You Hardwire or Use Sockets?
✔ Option 1 — Plug-in style
Inverter has built-in sockets
Easy to install
Good for small systems
Lower risk
✔ Option 2 — Hardwired to a consumer unit
Cleaner installation
Lets you power multiple sockets around the van
Must use an inverter changeover switch
Needs RCD/MCB protection
Better for high-power systems
7. Safety Essentials
Your inverter wiring must include:
✔ Correct cable size (use your Cable Sizing Tool!)
✔ Properly rated fuses or breakers
✔ Thick battery cables (25mm²–70mm² depending on wattage)
✔ Ventilation — inverters generate heat
✔ Secure mounting away from water and gas lines
8. What We Recommend
For most conversion customers:
⭐ 1000W Pure Sine Wave Inverter
Runs laptops, TVs, chargers, small kitchen devices
Works well with a 200Ah battery bank
⭐ 2000W Pure Sine Wave Inverter
For blenders, coffee makers, small microwaves
Requires lithium and 300–400Ah battery capacity
⭐ 3000W Pure Sine Wave Inverter
For induction hobs / high-power appliances
Requires a large lithium bank and heavy cables
9. What Size Cables to Use for Your Inverter
Because inverters draw extremely high current from your batteries, using the correct cable size is critical for both performance and safety. Undersized cable can cause:
Voltage drop
Overheating
Fire risk
Inverter alarms / shutdowns
Use this table to select the correct cable based on inverter wattage and battery voltage.
🔌 Recommended DC Cable Sizes (Battery → Inverter)
(Assumes cable run of 1–2 metres. For longer runs, increase cable size.)
12V Systems
| Inverter Size | Max DC Current | Recommended Cable Size |
|---|---|---|
| 300W | ~30A | 16mm² |
| 500W | ~50A | 25mm² |
| 1000W | ~90–100A | 35mm² |
| 1500W | ~140–160A | 50mm² |
| 2000W | ~180–200A | 50–70mm² |
| 3000W | ~260–300A | 70mm² |
24V Systems
(Half the current = smaller cable possible)
| Inverter Size | Max DC Current | Recommended Cable Size |
|---|---|---|
| 1000W | ~45A | 25mm² |
| 1500W | ~65A | 25–35mm² |
| 2000W | ~90A | 35mm² |
| 3000W | ~130–150A | 50mm² |
🔥 Always Fuse the Inverter Cables
Install a fuse at the battery end, sized for the expected current:
| Inverter Size | Fuse Rating |
|---|---|
| 300W | 40A |
| 500W | 60A |
| 1000W | 100–125A |
| 1500W | 150–200A |
| 2000W | 200–250A |
| 3000W | 300A |
Use MEGA fuses or Class-T fuses for high-power systems.
⚡ Cable Run Length Matters
If your inverter is more than 2m from the batteries:
➡ Increase cable size by one step
Example:
35mm² becomes 50mm²
50mm² becomes 70mm²
Short, thick cables = better efficiency and less heat.
✔ Best Practice Summary
Keep cable runs short and direct
Always mount the inverter close to the batteries
Use crimped lugs + heat shrink
Always fuse the positive cable
Always match your cable size to BOTH inverter wattage and cable length